Old Library

Somebody posted something about the rotor screw seizing in. Here is how I
got mine out although it was fairly rust free. Take a #2  Philips (the one
larger than the normal philips head, like on drywall screws) screwdriver,
preferably one you don't really car about or is a replaceable Craftsman.
Take a pair of vice-grips and clamp down on them about2-3" up from the
philips head. Before you remove the caliper, have somebody hold the brake
pedal down. Stick the screwdriver into the screw, and put as much force into
the screw as possible, i.e. press toward the center of the car as hard as
you can. Use the vice grips to turn the screwdriver. This method will
drastically reduce your chances of stripping the screw head and make
removing the screw a snap. It is also very important to clean out the groves
in the screw head as much as possible, for the best engagement.

When you go to reinstall the screw, or use a new one give it and all toerh
related parts a good coating of Neversieze. It is a paste that really helps
keep rust prone components from seizing up...sold at all good auto parts
stores. I use it on all my underbody cmponents, and works well for anything
threading into aluminum too. Don't worry about the bolt backing out,
neverseize shoud not affect this, as long as everything is properly torqued.

Michael Kaczmar
Analysis Engineer
Vehicle Synthesis Analysis and Simulation
General Motors Corporation
96 Jetta VR6
53 F-100
72 F-100

On Wednesday, February 9, 2000 1:04:04 PM, Michael Kaczmar wrote:

> Somebody posted something about the rotor screw seizing in. Here is how I
> got mine out although it was fairly rust free. Take a #2  Philips (the one
> larger than the normal philips head, like on drywall screws) screwdriver,
> preferably one you don't really car about or is a replaceable Craftsman.
> Take a pair of vice-grips and clamp down on them about2-3" up from the
> philips head. Before you remove the caliper, have somebody hold the brake
> pedal down. Stick the screwdriver into the screw, and put as much force into
> the screw as possible, i.e. press toward the center of the car as hard as
> you can. Use the vice grips to turn the screwdriver. This method will
> drastically reduce your chances of stripping the screw head and make
> removing the screw a snap. It is also very important to clean out the groves
> in the screw head as much as possible, for the best engagement.

Well, I guess this is the way Rube Goldberg would do this. <G>. Just buy an
impact screwdriver. Put the driver in the screw and whack it hard with a
hammer. Magic- the screw will come right out (unless it's set to tighten).
The impact driver should cost something less than $20.
Chris

> 72 F-100

I had one of these as my first "car".