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Andy, These won't be step by step instructions as much as a process with hints. The dreaded code: VAG-COM Version: Release 303.1 Control Module Part Number: 3A0 907 379 E Component and/or Version: ABS/EDS ITTAE 20 GI V00 Software Coding: 03704 Work Shop Code: WSC 00000 1 Faults Found: 01276 - ABS Hydraulic Pump (V64) 16-10 - Signal Outside Specifications - Intermittent Here's what I did (as much as my feeble memory can recall) . . . . All "rights" and "lefts" are from my point of view looking towards the rear of the car. 1: Disconnect and remove battery for safety and extra elbow room. 2: Disconnect plugs from ABS module. Pull locking mechanism for main harness towards front of car, unplug and try to set it off towards the right (looking towards rear of car). Unplug the ABS motor. I believe you squeeze the sides and pull it up. IIRC, it was in there pretty tightly. I think I also unbolted the coolant reservoir and shifted it off to the side to get better access to the ABS motor plug from above. The brake hard lines get in the way of your hands otherwise. 3: There are 4 E4 "inverse" Torx head bolts holding the electronics to the hydraulics. (See picture Underside of Electronics) The proper tool is an E4 socket (Snap-On and McMaster-Carr have them), but a 4mm socket or even a 5/32" socket will work, just be careful not to round the heads off. Three are easy to get to (front right/left, rear left) with a small (1/4" drive) socket wrench. For the last one in the right rear you'll need to get a small set of vise-grips and clamp the socket in the vise-grips. The space is just too tight to get a wrench into. There's enough room for the socket, but not for the wrench. This one is a PITA because it's hard to get at, plus there's not much room to swing the wrench, and you're working by feel. Best and most comfortable way I found was to lay over on top of the motor from the passenger side and hook my right hand around the front of the brake cylinder and put my left arm behind the motor. That way I could hold and turn the wrench with the right and feel for the bolt head and guide the socket with the left. 4: Once all the bolts are out, the module should slide downwards and slightly towards the right. It'll bump into the frame rail there, but there is *just* enough room to wiggle it between the rods coming out of the valve body (see picture Underside of Valve Body 2) and the frame rail. 5: As they say, installation is the reverse of removal. Be careful working the new module around the solenoid rods. I don't know how much abuse they'll take. I believe there was a torque spec in the Bentley CD, but how are you going to swing a torque wrench in there? I snugged them up plus maybe a half turn. Once the new electronics are in the module may have to be recoded with VAG-COM using the "03704" code above. I bought a new module (which comes with new bolts, BTW), so I definitely had to recode mine. If you get a used one from another Mk3 VR6 car, it'll probably be coded correctly. 6: Enjoy having ABS again!! I've also attached pictures showing the top side of the ABS electronics and the guts of the module. When I was pricing things in early 2005, a used one from the mail order VW recyclers I contacted was about $350 (though I've heard of them going for $250, just not when I was looking) and a new one was ~$900 from the dealership or $715 from Virtual World - as I recall, the *only* non-dealership place that I was comfortable with that would sell me a new one - chalk another one up to Mike Potter!!! Later, Luke
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The proper tool is an E4
socket (Snap-On and McMaster-Carr have them), but a 4mm socket or even a
5/32" socket will work, just be careful not to round the heads off. Three
are easy to get to (front right/left, rear left) with a small (1/4" drive)
socket wrench. For the last one in the right rear you'll need to get a small
set of vise-grips and clamp the socket in the vise-grips. The space is just
too tight to get a wrench into. There's enough room for the socket, but not
for the wrench. This one is a PITA because it's hard to get at, plus there's
not much room to swing the wrench, and you're working by feel. Best and most
comfortable way I found was to lay over on top of the motor from the
passenger side and hook my right hand around the front of the brake cylinder
and put my left arm behind the motor. That way I could hold and turn the
wrench with the right and feel for the bolt head and guide the socket with
the left.
4: Once all the bolts are out, the module should slide downwards and
slightly towards the right. It'll bump into the frame rail there, but there
is *just* enough room to wiggle it between the rods coming out of the valve
body (see picture Underside of Valve Body 2)
and the frame rail.
5: As they say, installation is the reverse of removal. Be careful working
the new module around the solenoid rods. I don't know how much abuse they'll
take. I believe there was a torque spec in the Bentley CD, but how are you
going to swing a torque wrench in there? I snugged them up plus maybe a half
turn. Once the new electronics are in the module may have to be recoded with
VAG-COM using the "03704" code above. I bought a new module (which comes
with new bolts, BTW), so I definitely had to recode mine. If you get a used
one from another Mk3 VR6 car, it'll probably be coded correctly.
6: Enjoy having ABS again!!
I've also attached pictures showing the top side of the ABS electronics and
the guts of the module.
When I was pricing things in early 2005, a used one from the mail order VW
recyclers I contacted was about $350 (though I've heard of them going for
$250, just not when I was looking) and a new one was ~$900 from the
dealership or $715 from Virtual World - as I recall, the *only*
non-dealership place that I was comfortable with that would sell me a new one
- chalk another one up to Mike Potter!!!
Later,
Luke