Old Library

Hey all, long time (like 3 years) reader, first time poster.
95 Jetta GLX, pretty sure I need to replace the clutch master cylinder.
I've replaced the slave cylinder with the help of the library, but
looking at the master cylinder, I'm afraid. There's no How-To in the
library for replacing the master cylinder, which, to me, looks SO MUCH
harder. Or at least more of a pita. Anyone have a handy walkthrough they
could provide so I can get this done this weekend?

Thanks everyone
Steve Houck

Hi Steve,

I did this a few months ago.  It's a PITA but it's totally doable.  Do you
have a Bentley?  I followed the few directions that were in it and was
ok.   The only snag I ran into was the cover plate that goes between the
wiring harness / fuse box and the steering column.  That was a royal PITA
to get out and I was unable to get it back in.  The bentley said "remove
the cover" and that was as good as it got.   Also remember you'll need a
second hand to help you bleed it when you get it back together.  And a
flare-wrench for the hydrolic line is always a good idea.  It's taken a
few tries to get it bled well too.

-m

Sorry guys, accidentally pressed send!

Wow! Fast! Thanks for the reply.

Yep, I've got a Bently (for what it's worth). As far as tools, my father
in law is a mechanic, so I've got any tool I can imagine at my disposal
(except a power bleeder, doh!)
I did notice that plate by the fusebox, I also noticed that the
passenger side bolt holding the MC in is freaking blocked by another
plate. What's the story with that?

My parts guy at Steve's European Auto (for anyone in Michigan, they
ROCK) told me that people have a hard time bleeding them, and usually
end up bringing their cars in because they can't bleed it themselves.
Any trick to it? I was thinking about putting some fluid in it before I
put it in the car, just to give it *something*.
I'm assuming that my MC being bad is the reason why when I replaced my
slave cylinder a couple weeks ago, the pedal wasn't SOLID, as in this
post:
http://www.gti-vr6.net/library/transmission/repl_clutch_slave_cyl.html

Steve Houck
Network Administrator
Entyre
Main Phone: 734-827-6700
Direct Phone: 734-827-6754
Cell Phone: 734-945-9670
Fax: 734-661-0157
&#115;houck&#64;entyre<img src=/i/dc.gif border=0 width=35 height=15>

I'm replacing the clutch master cylinder because when I hold the clutch
down for more than, say, 30 seconds (like a long light), the clutch
doesn't come back up all the way. I have to pull it back up with my
foot. Lame. It also shudders when I let off the clutch in first or
second gears, but I'm afraid (very afraid) that's the actual clutch
(release bearing?).

I also had Steve's European Auto look at it, and they noted on the
service sheet that the "clutch hydraulic system was failing". And
something about brake fluid getting on the clutch, possibly through the
master cylinder (I don't have the sheet with me), which might be why it
shudders? so I replaced the slave cylinder. But it didn't fix the
shudder or the clutch returning all the way.

Steve Houck
Network Administrator
Entyre
Main Phone: 734-827-6700
Direct Phone: 734-827-6754
Cell Phone: 734-945-9670
Fax: 734-661-0157
&#115;houck&#64;entyre<img src=/i/dc.gif border=0 width=35 height=15>

-----Original Message-----
From: VW Golf [mailto:&#118;r6nitedriver&#64;yahoo<img src=/i/dc.gif border=0 width=35 height=15>]
Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2005 14:12
To: Steve Houck; Max Baker
Cc: &#108;ist&#64;gti-vr6<img src=/i/dn.gif border=0 width=35 height=15>
Subject: Re: [gti-vr6] RE: Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement

Why are you changing your Master Cylinder for?
Have your brakes stopped working?
FYI, you need to pump your clutch like 20+ times, to bleed it.

Shudders are most likely slips caused by the clutch not fully engaging.
if its the throwout bearing you would hear it ticking with an
increasing volume (except when you push it slightly) until the clutch
wont disengage.


-Conlan

I bled it manually. Push in clutch, open bleeder valve with vinyl tubing
running to a glass jar, wait till flow out of slave cylinder stops,
slowly release clutch, repeat.

Also, remember that the clutch master cylinder is on the outs. Or at
least I think it is.

Steve Houck
Network Administrator
Entyre
Main Phone: 734-827-6700
Direct Phone: 734-827-6754
Cell Phone: 734-945-9670
Fax: 734-661-0157
&#115;houck&#64;entyre<img src=/i/dc.gif border=0 width=35 height=15>

On Wed, Oct 19, 2005 at 03:56:47PM -0400, Steve Houck wrote:
> I bled it manually. Push in clutch, open bleeder valve with vinyl tubing
> running to a glass jar, wait till flow out of slave cylinder stops,
> slowly release clutch, repeat.
>
> Also, remember that the clutch master cylinder is on the outs. Or at
> least I think it is.
There is a close and opening of the valve some where in there, right?

Make sure your brake reservoir stays topped off
    Pull clutch all the way up
    open bleeder
    push clutch slowly to almost the bottom
	shut bleeder
    rinse,repeat.

If you do that a whole bunch (10 times) it should be rock hard.  If you
still find the clutch pedal sagging in the mornings then maybe your master
cylinder is bad.   Definitely more effective w/ two ppl btw, no chance of
sucking anything back up while you run from the cabin to the bleeder
valve.

-m

Maybe that was my problem. I seem to remember I was doing the bleeding
with the pedal pushed in.

Push & hold pedal (someone else)
Open, bleed, close
Release pedal
Repeat

Not right?
I'll try your way and hopefully I'll have a harder pedal.

Think this has anything to do with the shuddering?
And yes, I closed the valve back up :^)

Steve Houck
Network Administrator
Entyre
Main Phone: 734-827-6700
Direct Phone: 734-827-6754
Cell Phone: 734-945-9670
Fax: 734-661-0157
&#115;houck&#64;entyre<img src=/i/dc.gif border=0 width=35 height=15>

Do yourself a HUGE favor and go to
http://www.parts4vws.com and buy a power bleeder.
It's a hydraulic pump that screws over your break
reseviour, and pressurizes the systems.  Pump to 15-20
PSI, attach rubber hose and place in recepticle, and
open pitcock/bleeder valve.  Do master first till it
runs clear, then do slave.  Enjoy.

Damon
97'

Ummmm, how could your master cylinder leak fluid onto
your clutch anyways ??????  MAYBE the slave, but the
master cylinder?

Ok, sorry for repeat emails everyone, but one other
idea is to check your rear tranny mount.  They are
hydraulic, and around 80K, mine was showing obvious
signs of wear and tear, and signs of leaking.  I had
to replace mine while doing the water pump, the
tranny/rear engine mount bolt snapped off in the
mount.  Note, the tranny mount IS a PITA, as is a
clutch job.  If you decide to do the clutch, get a
friend to help you pull the tranny, or you'll crush
yourself.
Damon

if your leaking fluid from your slave cylinder,
you would easily see it

a. on the floor
b. if you remove the 2 bolts that hold the slave
cylinder and physically examine it

Easy way to see if your clutch is good.  Start car,
somewhere safe like a parking lot or driveway.  Put
car in 3rd gear, rev to about 1500 rpm's, and come off
the clutch quicklly.  Car should stall.  If is revs
way down and won't stall out, the clutch is slipping
accros s the flywheel, and you need a new one.

Damon

Careful with the pressure.  I run 10-12 psi max.  Rumor has it that
higher pressures can damage seals.

-jim

I tried the 3rd gear start, and what I noticed was that it tried to keep
running (it gave it 2 good surges) then died. So, it seems like it's
going, but not completely bad yet? Or am I totally off? Is it bad?
*cringe*

Steve Houck
Network Administrator
Entyre
Main Phone: 734-827-6700
Direct Phone: 734-827-6754
Cell Phone: 734-945-9670
Fax: 734-661-0157
&#115;houck&#64;entyre<img src=/i/dc.gif border=0 width=35 height=15>

Nope, if I'm on the freeway, and I'm just cruising along, and all of a
sudden I floor it, the car just goes faster, it doesn't slip AT ALL. On
the other hand, I do downshift a LOT, mainly to save on brakes.

I am intruiged about the post regarding the whine when letting out the
clutch in 1st gear... What's up with that?

Steve Houck
Network Administrator
Entyre
Main Phone: 734-827-6700
Direct Phone: 734-827-6754
Cell Phone: 734-945-9670
Fax: 734-661-0157
&#115;houck&#64;entyre<img src=/i/dc.gif border=0 width=35 height=15>

                                                                                                              Changed the clutch master cylinder this weekend, a few things to note.

First, the hardest part was getting the bolt for the support bracket                                          back in. The bracket I'm referring to is directly in front of the
passenger side bolt holding the master cylinder in. PITA. Otherwise,
went fairly smooth, had to beat on the end of a flat head screwdriver on                                      the studs on the MC to get it to pop out. New one went in fairly easily.
Bleeding took forever because I bought a Craftsman hand vacuum pump, and
apparently I was using it wrong because I kept getting air for about 2
hours and a quart (big bottle) of brake fluid. Had a helper pump the                                          clutch to bleed it after I gave up, and it was solid fluid. So unless
someone can give me tips on using the hand vacuum pump, I don't
recommend it. Didn't work. Also tried the hand pump on the brakes, and                                        got air forever as well. Finally did it manually and it was solid fluid
again. Dunno.                                                                                                 
Anyway, 2 1/2 hours including bleeding time (about 45 minutes of
actually changing the thing)                                                                                  
Steve Houck
95 Jetta GLX -Sore hand edition