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Autotech Sport Tuning
32240-E Paseo Adelanto San Juan Capistrano, CA 92675
(714) 240-4000 FAX (714) 240-045
PART NUMBER(S): 10.430.01OK-10.430.015K
DESCRIPTION: UPPER STRESSBAR, A2, A3
TOOLS REQUIRED: PARTS LIST:
1. Electric Drill 1. One Stressbar, assembled
2 . 3/1 6" & 3/8" drill bits 2 . Six 3/8 by 1" bolts
3. Hex wrench, 9/16" 3. Six 3/8 AN washers
4. Socket wrench, 9/16" 4. Six 3/8 Flat washers
5. Hex wrench, 1" 5. Six 3/8 AN nylock nuts
6. Hammer & centerpunch
7. 10mm hex wrench
8. Jack and jackstands
9. Wheel lug wrench
NOTES: Cars with ABS brake systems will have to either drill
one small additional hole into each ring casting, or remove
the sir-all studs that hold the connector for the wheel speed
sensor and re-mount the connector after the stressbar is installed.
This bar is unique in that it is constructed entirely of T6
Aluminum Alloy. T6 is extremely rigid and very light in weight.
The ring-shaped end castings are much more supportive to the
strut tower than the ends of competitor's bars .
Autotech uses only the best Mil-spec hardware for this stressbar.
NOTE: it is not metric hardware. Do not use metric tools. Hex size is 9/16".
Autotech DOES NOT use a "blind" rivet-nut or "nut-sert" to
attach the bar to the chassis. These can prove to be a complete
nuisance to install without an expensive tool and are an inferior
means of attaching parts that encounter high loads. The minor
amount of extra trouble that is required to install through-bolts
in the strut towers is more than compensated for by their
long-term strength and reliability.
Many AST Stressbars have a small dimple in the crosstube.
This is not a defect! It is for clearance of certain engine
components, and is made using a hydraulic press.
1. Lift your car's hood.
2. If your car has A/C, it may be necessary to lift the upper
A/C line off of the strut tower so that the stressbar's ring
can be in-stalled. To do this, remove the bolt that holds
the upper A/C line to the car's right strut tower.
3. Trial-fit the stressbar on the vehicle. When properly
installed, the stressbar bends up and towards the rear of
the car, sweeping rearward to run along the hood seal. To
properly center the ring castings on each strut, use the center
adjuster to increase or decrease the bar's width.
4. With the bar on the vehicle, use a centerpunch to mark
each of the three hole locations on each tower. Be sure to
re-check the marks.
5. Remove the stressbar.
6. Remove the top strut nut, allowing the strut to "fall"
away from the strut tower as the car is lifted. This will
allow easier access beneath the towers when attaching the
stressbar. This does not affect your front alignment settings.
7. Jack up the car and place the front on jackstands so that
the front wheels are off the ground. Remove both front wheels.
8. Using first the 3/16" bit, drill the six pilot holes in the
towers. Then, using the 3/8" bit, enlarge the holes to their
final size. There might be some body sealing adhesive that
partially covers these holes. If there is, it can be cut
or pulled out of the way.
9. Unbolt each end casting from the stressbar crosstube.
10. Using the 3/8 by 1" bolts, the AN washers, flat washers,
and nylock nuts, attach each end casting to its tower. The
smaller AN washer goes on top of the casting, the larger flat
washer goes on the underside of the tower. Make sure that
you do not overtighten the nuts. They need only 8-9 ft lbs of torque.
11. Put your wheels back on and the car back on the ground.
12. Re-attach the top nuts to the front struts, and torque to specs.
13. With the car on a level surface, so the chassis is not
being twisted, adjust the crosstube's length so that the bolt
holes at each end align with the holes in each casting. Attach
the crosstube to the end castings with the bolts supplied.
Torque the nuts to 8-9 ft/lbs ( 95- 110 in lbs ) .
NOTE: DO NOT use the center adjuster to "tweak" the camber
settings on your vehicle. Adjust the crosstube's length to
fit precisely into the two end castings, then tighten the
adjuster's jam nuts against each crosstube half.
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