Old Library

Just took my car to the local tyre shop to get the wheels aligned
yesterday.  After driving it today I noticed it was pulling to
the left when I let the steering wheel go.

So I parked it and had a look at the wheels - the left front is
just about vertical and the right one is slanted in towards the
top; noticably different cambers.

So I rang the guy and told him and he goes ... there's no camber
adjustment on my car - so I said yes it does, but the caster
isn't adjustable.

This is right isn't it?

Just need something to argue with this dumb ass tyre shop when I
take it back.  They think they can pull the wool over everyone's
eyes.

David


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You are right, but that still won't help you.  It is caster that makes the
car pull--NOT camber.  To get the camber adjusted, you have to loosen the
sub-frame then use a frame jack.  Your average local Sear/Wal-Mart/NTB
won't do this.  Talk to a body man.

-dave

On Thu, 24 Jun 1999 David_Yee@rta.nsw.gov.au wrote:
> So I rang the guy and told him and he goes ... there's no camber
> adjustment on my car - so I said yes it does, but the caster
> isn't adjustable.
[...] 16 lines deleted

That should read to get caster adjusted...

On Wed, 23 Jun 1999, David Shreve wrote:
> You are right, but that still won't help you.  It is caster that makes the
> car pull--NOT camber.  To get the camber adjusted, you have to loosen the
> sub-frame then use a frame jack.  Your average local Sear/Wal-Mart/NTB
> won't do this.  Talk to a body man.
>
> -dave
[...] 25 lines deleted

Dave and David,

Actually, you have caster and camber switched.  Camber is adjustable (at the
bolts that connect the strut and bearing housing) and will definitely make
the car pull if not set properly/equally.  Caster is not adjustable (easily)
and has more to do with straight-line stability and steering self-centering.
If the guy doing the alignment didn't know that the camber is adjustable,
you should ask for your money back and go someplace that knows what they are
doing (Pep Boys worked for me).  That said, it is not too unusual to have
some pulling after an alignment, especially if it was way out (has to do
with the tire wear due to the previous settings).  The test is to switch the
front tires from side to side.  If the pulling stays the same, it is most
likely the alignment.  If the pulling switches side (or at least changes
noticeably) it is the tires.

-Chris

From: David Shreve &lt;&#100;eshre01&#64;engr.uky<img src=/i/de.gif border=0 width=35 height=15>&gt;
>
> You are right, but that still won't help you.  It is caster that makes the
[...] 23 lines deleted

On Wed, 23 Jun 1999, David Shreve wrote:

>
> You are right, but that still won't help you.  It is caster that makes the
> car pull--NOT camber.  To get the camber adjusted, you have to loosen the
> sub-frame then use a frame jack.  Your average local Sear/Wal-Mart/NTB
> won't do this.  Talk to a body man.
>

Dave,
      Although caster is the single most important cause of drift/pull of
all the front susp geometry specs, camber will most certainly cause a severe
pull. The car will go in the direction of the more POSITIVE side. Adjusting
caster by shifting the subframe is severely limited and affects both sides.
If the difference is slight, the combined addition to one side and reduction
to the other may be enough. Caster should normally be a few tenths of a
degree more positive on the right side to compensate for the normal crown
(camber) of the road. More positive caster can be had by lowering the rear
end of the car.

Bob C.



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