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In a previous article, Marker510 (Marker510@aol<img src=/i/dc.gif border=0 width=35 height=15>) said:
>
> The Bentley suggests that Arthur's idea regarding a polarity inverting switch
> (and mine) should work, but it doesn't. The Other signals into the Central
> locking pump are a conventional +12V lock and unlock, however the lock signal
> must be pulsed to unlock more than the driver's door (this is, in fact, the
> same wire as out key switch).
After some brave experimentation, I have some additional data. I think
that you have the wrong wire, and are going to kick yourself when you see
what I found.
Under the dashboard, right behind the hood release lever, you can see the
wiring to the driver's door connector. There are several single row,
multi-pin connectors snapped onto the back of the big round connector
that mates with the door's connector. Fortunately, the one that I wanted
was right in front of my nose. I snipped the second wire from the bottom
on that 5-pin connector (black/red 20 AWG) as close to the plug as possible.
There ain't no going back. :-)
I then proceeded to test the functions of the various locking systems.
The VW keyless remote worked as normal. Locking the driver's side door
from the key outside locked both doors, One turn of the key unlocked the
driver's door, two unlocked the central locking system. The alarm armed
and disarmed as it should have in each case, and the LED on the driver's
door blinked when it was supposed to. Pulling up on the lock button shaft
on the driver's door only opened that door, and pushing it down likewise
did nothing to the central locking system. Perfect! Everything is working
according to plan! The follow-me switch in the driver's door was
disabled, and nothing else changed. Of course, I just realized that I
never checked the passenger's door, but I've never even had a key in that
lock. (Just a note that you have to close the driver's side door or trip
the door striker before doing these tests, as the mechanical anti-lockout
feature won't let that door lock unless the mechanism thinks the door is
closed.)
After a little wrestling match, I managed to pull enough slack into the
black/red wire to crimp a red butt connector onto it. From there, I
pulled a pretty piece of black/white wire up to the center console.
Feeling brave, I sat in the driver's seat, closed the door, and grabbed
the bare end of the wire. I tapped it to the ground ring inside the
lighter, er I mean 12 volt accessory outlet...
What do you you think happened? Zap? Fire? Was Arthur locked in the
burning car by a central lock system on the rampage, isolated from his
trusty fire extinguisher in the trunk? :-) No, the central lock pump
engaged and the doors locked! No fanfare, not even visible sparks! I
pulled the wire off of ground and peeked over my shoulder to see that the
alarm light was not blinking. Excellent sign! The pump stopped running
when the doors locked. I suspected this was the case, since the switch in
the door appeared to be always connected either to ground or +12V. The
pump's internal logic had to deal with this.
(This is why the wire must be cut at the door. If the doors are locked,
the door switch has the wire tied to ground. If you try to unlock the
doors with your new lock button, and it's just tapped into that wire,
you'll be feeding +12V directly to ground through the in-door switch.
Trust me, this is what we call a dead short in the biz, and the doors
won't open. I have a set of chrome nail clippers that turned blue from
the arc when I tried this last year.)
Feeling brave (and trapped!), I tapped the wire into the back of the
lighter jack, catching the +12V feed. Zap? Fire? No, the sunroof
opened. :-) Just kidding! The doors both unlocked. Feeling excited, I
immediately ran inside and turned on my computer to bring you this news.
> Ok- what did I do? Well, I'm doing a high-end alarm right now (I've been
> busy, so my GTi has been apart for about a month) in my 1995 GTi-VR6, and I
> built an astable timer circuit around the 555 IC.
You can still buy those things? I remember working with NE-555 and 556's
back in 1979! That would make them almost as old as vacuum tubes. :-)
> What it does is create
> pulses from one pulse.
I'm confused. Why do you need multiple pulses? I just tapped the wire
to +12 and ground, and the pump ran. Talk about the ultimate switch
bounce! The question is: Am I nuts, is my VW remote keyless system
massaging the signal to the lock pump, is there a difference between my
1995.5 model and your 1995.x car, or were you using the wrong wire?
> Oh, the stock switch in a 1997 car (where I got mine from the junkyard), is,
> in fact, a polarity reversing switch, with what appears to be a small
> capacitor (the sucker is glued in the shrink tube, so I haven't tried opening
> it up to check out the value- but I guess I can do that on my VOM) in-line on
> the lock side. I just cut everything off and utilized the switch as a more
> convertional +12V lock and +12V unlock.
I'm going to buy the switch from the dealer before they go on national
backorder thanks to my discovery, :-) unless somebody has one they want to
get rid of. Once I have one, I'll tell you how to hook up the switch to
the magic wire and make everything work. In the mean time, I'm going
outside to play with my wire in the lighter jack some more. [Skip it
Wally..... :-) ]
- -Arthur
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Mon Dec 15 21:33 CST 1997