Old Library

Instead of spamming the list with another long Pzwo install post, I
thought I'd send this to you directly.   This is my reply to
the question Jon Keith just asked about tips for the install.

My answers are somewhat more condensed and suitable for the archives.

If I recall, you already snagged my install pictures.  You could reference
them from this post instead of going back to my Pzwo.html link which,
as you say, may go away someday.   This way I can just refer people to
the archives when the rest of them start bugging the list in the spring.  ;)

	ian


=To: &#106;keith&#64;erols<img src=/i/dc.gif border=0 width=35 height=15>
=Subject: Re: [gti-vr6] P'zwos
--------

>Well I finally got my Pzwo lights today(long story).
>
>Anyway, I know there was a deluge of info on installing these babies and
>I was just wondering if someone could e-mail me privately with a summary
>of tips for the install.  Gotta get 'em painted and then, after 2.5
>months of anticipation, they will be on the car.

Take a look at http://rintintin.colorado.edu/~frechett/stuff/Pzwo.html




[ Or, if that page is AWOL, look here instead.
(I have also brightened up a couple of the photos, to show more
details of the positions of the parts, etc.)  aqn ]



That shows pictures of what the mounting positions should look like
although the upper inside bracket was prior to me putting the screw in.

Let me try to make this short (I usually fail).
I'm going to talk about the driver side as viewed from the front
for a while so when I say "top left" you'll know what I'm talking about.

Wiring:  I cut the Pzwo connectors off and attached crimp on spade
connectors.    I then peeled some of the tape back from the
wires on the stock wiring harness and attached wire taps, so I didn't
have to remove the stock plugs.  Onto the wires coming from the taps
I attached female disconnects to match the male spades.

I got some smaller taps and wire to handle the city lights.  I tapped
into the hot wire of the driver side marker light and put the female
disconnect on the other end.    I then discovered that I couldn't
reach the passenger side marker so I tapped into the top wire of
the front running light.  (Test by unplugging the driving lights, turning
on the lights and testing for 12V.  The middle is ground, the top should
be running lights and bottom turn signal.)  Hook up all the plugs, and put
tape over any exposed connections.  Set the lights on a chair in front of
the car and turn the lights on.  Make sure they all work before proceeding.

On to the mounting.

Lower bracket.  This is where the plastic tube and long bolt are used.
Put this on first, but don't tighten all the way down.
See the picture in the above page.

Upper right bracket.   Bend the mount on the car up from vertical to about
45 degrees.  Reach through the hole in the Pzwo assembly bracket with the
stock screw, snag the hole and pull it up tight.

Upper left bracket.  See the picture again.  Note the overlap.  That is
just the way it is.  That means that the hole in the assembly bracket is
3/4 of an inch away from the frame of the car.   The supplied instructions
say to drill a hole the same size as the existing one 1/4 below.
Don't.    That'll make a hole that's way too big and not necessarily in the
right place.   Also, the supplied self tapping screws are too short, and
the head is so small it'll pull through the hole in the assembly frame.
Run out and get two or three 1 1/4" #10 self tapping screws.   These
are long enough to reach to the car frame, and the head won't fall
through the big hole.   Don't drill any holes yet.

Now grab the surround and attach it to the headlight assembly, sliding
the right side (outside) under the fender first, and then swinging the
left side into place.  You'll probably have to remove both top surround
attachment screws completely.

Once it's in place, make sure that the right size is laying smoothly under
the fender touching all the way along.   This is where I suggest you go
grab the grill assembly and fit it back into place taking care
to NOT snap the top tabs back into place.  Clip it in along the bottom
and under the lights, and just push the tips of the tabs into the holes
on the top.  Then check that the bottom of the surround is even with the
grill opening.   You can make minor adjustments by moving the left
side of the assembly up and down a little.  Once it looks even
mark the position of the upper left bracket, take the grill back off
and drill the hole for the #10 screw simply by reaching through the hole
in the assembly bracket and drilling into the frame.
If you get the self tapping screws you can make the hole smaller and the
screw will ream it out.

Attach the upper left bracket now.   Either you still have the surround on
as I did at this point, or you need to reattach it, again, sliding the
outside end under the fender and then swinging it into place over the
mounting screws.

Tighten the lower mount the rest of the way.  (It was loose before so you
could wiggle things around).   I found that I had to bend the lower
bracket on the assembly a bit to get the proper fit against the fender on
the outside but you may not have to..

Repeat the above steps on the passenger side.  Note that the upper right
(inner) bracket will rest on a big long bolt running vertically down
the side of the radiator.   That is as it should be, and once again
necessitates the use of the longer metal screw you bought.   You'll also
have less room to get behind the lights with the air hose, snorkel and
airbox all in the way.  This will make attaching the lower mount
first, all the more important.

Everything else is the same on the passenger side.

As for aiming:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/4200/aimh4.html
and
http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/how_to/aim/
and
http://www.venommotorsports.com/howto/hellas.htm
are all very useful.

>Jon Keith
>98 GTI VR6

	ian